How to survive Italian bureaucracy (and maybe even win against it)

No matter how prepared you think you are before moving to Italy, nothing truly prepares you for your first face-off with Italian bureaucracy. You may hear about it from a few very distressed expats but, like most people, you likely won’t believe the “horror stories.” But the truth is right there, in front of your eyes: Italian bureaucracy is like a parallel universe where rules multiply every single day and a single missing stamp can derail your plans for weeks (or even months).

Sounds awful right? Want to know how it did get this way?

Actually, there are some different versions of the story. One traces the horrors of Italian bureaucracy back to the time Italy was under Austrian control. According to this story, at the time, bureaucracy was efficient and (dare we really say it?) logical. However, when the Italian inherited the system they did what they do best: adding creativity. And so, the rules became somewhat negotiable and loopholes started to be exploited. The ending point? Italian desks stacked with papers and stressed people on both sides of the counters.

The second story shifts the blame on the centuries of foreign domination, saying that Italians had to learn how to survive. And, naturally, they did so by bending the rules. This, however, made rules even stricter and complicated in an attempt to avoid the typical Italian shrewdness. Fast forward to today: the laws piled up, the forms multiplied, and signatures never end.

Now, no matter what your favorite origin story is, the outcome is still the same: as a foreigner in Italy, you will have to spend hours (if not days) filling out forms and waiting in queues. But the good news? If you know the right strategies, you may keep your sanity intact!

Our 6 survival tips for navigating Italian bureaucracy

1. Skip the phone, no matter what

You might think that picking up the phone and talking to someone is the quickest way to solve a very small bureaucratic problem. Wrong. In Italy, most government offices either don’t answer the phone or bounce you between different offices and people like a pinball. And even if you do manage to talk to a person, don’t expect them to solve your problem over the phone: they’ll simply tell you that it’s something you can only do in person, in an office that is open 4 hours a day (and they generally are the only hours of the day you cannot, by any means, go there).

What to do instead?

• If possible, and if they exist, use official online portals. Surprisingly enough, many local and national systems work pretty smoothly!
• If there’s no online portal or you can’t find what you need, show up in person. Italians do prefer face-to-face interactions, and if you stand in front of their desk you’ll get more concrete help.
• And don’t forget to book your appointment before going, even if it’s just a 5-minute question. Many offices no longer accept walk-ins.

2. Always take a number

Now imagine this situation: you finally get your appointment and show up to the office on time. When you arrive there, the office is (very unlikely) empty. No one sitting on those plastic chairs, no one queueing, only the bureaucrat waiting at his or her desk. You walk to the counter and try to talk to them, and they straight up ignore you. 

Can you guess what you did wrong?

You didn’t take a queue number. And, gods forbid it, you were not called to the counter!

The lesson here is as clear as crystal: no matter how quiet an office looks, always grab a number. Even if you’re the only person in the room. Otherwise, officials might refuse to help you with your problem or form. For them, it’s not about efficiency, it’s more like a beloved ritual. And do you want a tip? Of course you do! Arrive early in the morning, even if your appointment is later. Numbers run out very quickly, especially at the post office or at the questura. If you’re “late,” you might have to come back another day!

3. Carry a bureaucracy survival kit

Whenever, wherever (Shakira’s mention was a must) you go, don’t forget to bring with you a full set of whatever documents they asked you for. And yes, bring more than they asked for. You’ll thank me for this tip later. 

Moreover, don’t forget to always have on hand your Italian bureaucracy “first-aid kit.” Here’s the very minimum you should always have ready!

• Two to four passport-sized photos: they are required for everything, from IDs and permits to gym memberships!
• At least one marca da bollo: this is a revenue stamp (government generally requires the €16 ones) that are sold at tobacconists. Make sure to buy them in advance since offices rarely sell them on-site.
• Photocopies of everything: Italians love photocopies, so make copies of your passport, visa, rental contract, utility bills, bank statements, everything you can think of basically!
• Cash and coins: most offices still only accept payment in cash so don’t forget to have coins with you everywhere you go. And, if possible, make sure to have the right amount to avoid any hassle with the change.

4. Win over the person behind the desk

Let me tell you my little secret to getting what you need when you need it: the person sitting behind the desk should matter to you more than any rule or other problem. 

Basically, the best way to get an official to actually help you is to treat them like a human being. Crazy right? But they too are human, they too can be in a bad mood. And their mood can really decide whether your form gets accepted or pushed back. So, show empathy, smile, tell them “hello,” ask them about their day or about the little trinket on their desk. And make sure to let them know that you understand how difficult their job is and that you’re okay with them taking a little bit longer finding the right information. It’s just a tiny connection for you, but most of the time it turns you from “just another annoying applicant” into “someone worth helping.” And you want to be someone worth helping.

I know it may sound like manipulation, but it’s not. It’s just showing a little respect for the person that will (or won’t) help you. And Italy, like many others, is a country that works by having the right relationship at the right time. So, the more human you are, the smoother your path can become!

5. Never lose your temper

This is the natural continuation of tip number 4. 

You will see people shouting at the officials because they are annoyed or stressed or maybe they’ve been bounced between five different offices in the last week. Don’t copy them. Just don’t.

You can surely guess why, but let me put it in writing. Raising your voice at an officer rarely works and often backfires. That’s because once they choose that you’re a “difficult one,” they not only lose their will to help but also suddenly discover ten or so extra rules you must follow to get your document. So, stay calm and polite. And if you really feel like exploding, take a deep breath and maybe come back to the office later.

Just remember: the Italian bureaucracy system will test your patience, no matter what you need to do. And you will not win by being the loudest person in the room.

6. When in doubt, try with someone else

Not every person is the same, we all know it. Then, let’s apply it to bureaucrats and officers too! They are very clearly not all the same: some are angels who always do their best to help you, others are more like fantasy monsters you have to defeat to get the treasure.

The lesson you should learn here? If you hit a wall, don’t keep bashing your head against it. Be smarter. Say “thank you” and leave without causing a scene. Then, try again. Go back another day and hope you’ll get a different officer (though the one you just left behind will probably not recognize you either!). It’s amazing how often a problem disappears when you’re dealing with a different person or the same person just on a less frustrating day.

Pro tip: if you get called again to the same desk and feel like the officer is straight out hostile against you (or if they recognize you as the person they already said “no” to), wait it out. Let another unlucky soul go first and take your shot with a different one. I know it’s sneaky, but it does work.